A Glimpse of the Medical World in Havana

Monday, March 9, 2015

For many years I had fantasized about spending time in Cuba learning about their medical system. This morning I got to experience medicine in Cuba first hand as a patient. Yesterday, while walking in the street in a part of town that still needs renovation, I tripped and fell. I remember saying to my sister before I left, “I hope my impaired vision doesn’t trip me up on this trip.” Well, it literally tripped me up. With reduced peripheral vision and no depth perception, I fell in a hole in the street while looking at the sights, twisted my ankle, sprained my knee, and tore the ligament at the base of my left thumb. Even with ice it was quite painful and swollen. I thought it would be best to get an x-ray at the emergency room to make sure there was no fracture in my left hand.

One of our guides drove me to the hospital for tourists. I was seen immediately by the doctor on duty who took a detailed history and did a thorough exam of my extremities. X-rays were taken with a method that I haven’t seen used in thirty years. No fracture detected. The entire time spent in the ER was less than an hour. It was actually a pleasant experience. When I was in the pharmacy to pick up the ace wrap, I was told that all their medicines were made in Cuba since they were hard to get from abroad. The Cuban doctors have had to rely on their clinical skills (thorough history taking and complete physical exams along with finely honed diagnostic skills) to make up for lack of advanced equipment. They also rely on alternate methods of healing as well, like herbal medicine and acupuncture.

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When I get home, I will ask my friend and skilled pain management specialist, Jonas Skardis, to inject me with platelet rich plasma, similar to prolotherapy, to reconnect the ligament which I believe is partially torn off the bone. I’m not worried because I know it can be repaired—without surgery.

When I joined up with the rest of the group, they were just finishing exploring the museum of musicology. The name of our trip is “Sounds of Havana.” Even though the travel restrictions have been partially lifted, at the time of our trip we still needed to have a purpose that fit the categories that were authorized to enter Cuba from the US. Our category was educational, specifically to learn about music and dance in Cuba. Celia made sure our schedule included instruction in both those areas.

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Archives at the Institute of Musicology

One of Rodrigo’s many projects for the betterment of Cuba is the Community Project Espiral, a grassroots organization dedicated to educating young people on environmental issues and sustainable development. We discussed with the students, as young as 14, and professionals what some of the pressing issues in Cuba are and what they each personally were doing about it. The devotion to their country is inspiring. Throughout our trip we frequently heard about the hunger for technology so they could use their skills more effectively.

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In the afternoon, we got an invigorating dance lesson from the students we had watched perform the day before. We learned the Cuban version of salsa which is way more sexy and sensual than what I learned in New Mexico. We also learned how to do the Rumba and what each of the movements mean, related to a stylized sexual encounter, called “vaccination,” which implies impregnating the woman dancer.

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The dancers

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Our dance teachers giving us a demonstration of the wild and sexy Cuban version of Salsa dancing.

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More dancers from the community project.

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Demonstration of the Rumba, with roots in Africa. The blue scarf the woman is holding in front of her private parts is symbolic of protection from the man who is trying to “vaccinate” her. It’s like a courting dance. Tom Chavez is off to the side, seriously taking it all in.

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Our instructor thinks we’re catching on.

In the evening we had dinner next to an old Spanish fort called El Morro then went to La Cabana Fortress where we watched the nightly ritual of soldiers dressed in the 17th century uniforms of the Spanish army march around the perimeter, along with horse and buggies, and conclude the performance with the blasting of the cannons aimed out over the bay at 9 pm.

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A view of El Morro Fort from the 17th Century guarding the mouth of the bay.

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Closer view. This is where we’re headed to eat dinner at a restaurant near the fort.

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Our restaurant in the background

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Our restaurant with a view of Havana on the other side of the bay.

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Havana as seen from the fort.

In the evenings our group usually goes dancing or something else that’s fun. I haven’t been staying out late and joining in on the dancing, even though it sounds like a lot of fun. The day is so packed with one event after another, I need to have down time—and keep searching for a good internet connection. It’s an elusive quest. Using the internet here is like watching the grass grow. I am getting a good exercise in patience. The Cubans I talk to assure me that the problem will be solved soon once the new trade agreements are put into place.

On my way home I wander over to the iconic Malecon, a broad seawall next to an esplanade that stretches for 5 miles along the Havana coastline. A friend who has a special connection to Cuba as a child, gave me a heart-shaped rose quartz to take to Cuba and throw into the sea from the Malecon. Along the way, I saw fishermen, lovers, artists, and lots of friendly people enjoying the end of the day.

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Image 103 Image 95Image 104Image 107Buenas Noches, mis amores.

 

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Comments

A Glimpse of the Medical World in Havana — 16 Comments

  1. That’s really what you call participatory journalism! But I really don’t think you had to go that far. 🙂 Sorry for your pain. And glad you could bring it all into your writing.
    I continue to love this, and I really like that you’re spending so much time and being so thorough. It feels like a letter from a loved one. Keep it coming!

  2. Erica– Love your Cuba blog: it conveys so vividly the sights, sounds, and flavor of Havana. I’m so glad you’re back safe and sound in the community that missed you, and that you recovered so fast and so well from tripping. The photo of you and your doctors–the two docs– showed you looking fine and smiling, like you were in good hands. I’ve been impressed by what I hear of Cuban medicine, and you verified that.

  3. Erica your courage is inspiring. Many good wishes for rapid healing
    and taking good care of yourself.
    Love, Barbara

  4. Oh Erica–did we both have to explore the emergency rooms of other countries? My experiences here in Italy were very long waits and seeing docs use ancient computers, printers, and very old medical machines, but ultimately, with patience, I received good care. The effects of the financial “crisis” as they call the recession here are evident in staffing and equipment, but the costs of treatment, procedures and drugs, even for folks like me who are not part of the medical system for citizens are very inexpensive. Heal well, Erica. I know we’re both pretty “tough old birds”!

  5. Dear Erica: I’m so sorry to hear about your fall. As someone who has had balance and proprioception issues, now under control for the most part, I winced when you described your mishap. I’m so glad, however, that you were well taken care of. Thanks for the interesting info on salsa and rumba dancing in Cuba. The Latin dances with their seductive hip movements speak of the sexual encounter. Americans, encountering these movements for the first time, have to let go of a lot of our culture’s inhibitions in order to dance the seduction well. Take care and blessings, Jennie

  6. Sounds like a fabulous trip (except of course for the trip that became a fall.) Look forward to hearing more. Heal quickly and have great fun.

  7. Erica, I love your blog–it’s like a free trip to Cuba. But oh so sorry to hear of your fall and aches and pains. I hope you heal well and quickly. Thinking of you here in Asheville, NC

  8. oh erica, i am so sorry about your injury! it sounds like your trip-up hasn’t tripped you up for long though and that the e.r experience was pleasant, educational and meaningful. i hope that, by now, you are getting around without pain. how is the ankle, hand, and your perambulation? you are such a good sport!

    looking forward to reading your posts as they come!

    meanwhile, spring has sprung in santa fe. some of the trees are already flowering, a bit early and we know what that means, but they are beautiful and the bird songs are beautiful! the splash of color and cacophony of sounds call us outside more and draw us to new beginnings.

    love,

    mary

  9. Do hope your wounds heal quickly, and with minimal discomfort….but what a way to explore the medical system! Fabulous pictures and narrative. Peace, Eleanor

  10. Thank you, Erica, for taking the time and patience to find the internet each day.
    Your description of you experience in the emergency room is very interesting noting
    the creative way they deal without the resources taken for granted in this country.
    Your pictures give a good feel of what you are writing about.
    I had a remarkable experience with an alternative healer in a small South African
    village several years ago.

  11. Oh Erica, I’m really sending much healing light to you. Your incredible spirit will carry you home for final healing. You are such a trailblazer, but did you HAVE to try out the medical offerings there?

    I have been such a fan of The Buena Vista Club music performers for most of my life, and have followed their journey. Perhaps you can catch some of them while you are there. They are phenomenal. True music for the soul! Please take care and I am looking forward to our next visit!

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