The Long Journey to Chiang Mai:
“Ma’am, you can just walk right through. You’ve been pre-qualified.” I felt like I had won the lottery. It was like travel in the old days. Nothing to remove. Nothing to take off. Nothing to pull out. I just walked right through. An auspicious beginning.
I’m sitting here in LAX for four hours, waiting for the flight to Seoul then on to Chiang Mai. Seoul has special significance for my family. In 1960, my father lived in Seoul during his time as Secretary of the United Nations Peacekeeping force at the demilitarized zone (DMZ), the volatile line separating North and South Korea. My sister, Vreni, went to visit my father in Seoul and fell in love with the country and ended up staying long after my father returned home. She stayed so long, we were worried she wouldn’t come home. She did eventually come home, fluent in Korean and full of enchanting stories of Korean life and culture.
We’re in the air now, with 13 hours to go until we arrive in Seoul. Jami, in the row ahead of me, and I each have the unexpected good fortune of having the two seats next to us empty. We can lay our entire bodies lengthwise and get some real rest.
The Korean flight attendants are fascinating to watch with their flawless skin, tastefully done make-up, and impeccable politeness.
By the end of our long, 30-hour trip, I will have watched six movies—almost right in a row. Such a rare opportunity to indulge. The screen gives me a choice to watch in Korean, Chinese, French, or English.
At the Seoul airport we’ll be meeting up with two more participants, one of whom is Beth who used to be my neighbor at my co-housing community—The Commons. She’ll be coming from Hawaii.
In Chiang Mai, I’ll be 14 hours ahead of you. You will be in my past. I will be in your future. What a concept. But, as we’re taught by the enlightened ones, the past, present, and future are all one.
While you’re waiting to hear about my time with the elephants, here’s a link that I think you’ll find quite moving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duSgIcEqUzQ Jami, leader of our small group, plays the cello to the elephants. You can watch the response of the elephants, one of whom moves his body in rhythm to the music.
We arrived close to midnight. As soon as I stepped out of the airport, an exotic, pungent smell wafts up my nose, smelling like spices mixed with humidity, along with a whiff of tropical plants and mildew. The taxi takes us to our lovely hotel, located right inside the walled part of the city, opposite a gilded temple.
We’re weary, but it’s hard to fall asleep, given that our bodies are 14 hours behind schedule.
Still in a daze from jet-lag, I got up and joined the others for breakfast on the hotel verandah, right on the edge of a busy street, full of activity, like Thai people going to the many temples to pray, or opening up their shops or stands on the sidewalks. There’s an interesting weaving of the holy and the mundane here. The ambience feels like a combination of India and Bali. The people are friendly and patient, with a ready smile or laugh. Somehow the language barrier doesn’t seem to pose much of a problem.
Half the group has arrived. The other half will arrive in two days. We came early to have a little time to get oriented before we dive in to be with the elephants. The four of us roam the city, soaking in the sights, smells and tastes. There are gilded temples every few meters along the streets.
Yesterday was night market which went on from the afternoon to well into the night. The streets were lined with vendors selling everything imaginable, but mostly crafts and clothing. In a line in the middle of the streets, spaces were reserved for elderly and disabled people so they could earn money by making Thai music using instruments that were unfamiliar to me, with a collection box in front of them.
Monday, December 7th, 2015
Seven of the eight of us have arrived safely in Chiang Mai. The eighth participant will meet us tomorrow night after her flight from India where she has been involved in a health project.
After a leisurely breakfast on the verandah, we began our day at a well-known marketplace where just about anything could be found. Although I don’t want more STUFF in my life, I couldn’t resist some of the beautiful handmade clothing and artifacts.
From there, we headed off in a number of different directions, meeting at the end of the day for dinner. I did more exploring of the city.
And then I succumbed to the lure of famous Thai massages. I indulged fully in this luxury. I’ve had four massages so far, each about $6 per hour. And I even got a pedicure—without the toenail polish.
Tuesday, Deember 8th, 2015
Three of us wanted to go to a hot springs out in the country, in a more jungle-like area, surrounded by mountains. We hired a driver and headed out of Chiang Mai. We had quite an adventure.
On our way home we decided to take a little side trip to the Tiger Kingdom where young tiger orphan cubs are raised into adults. The project is supported financially by letting the public have some direct, but limited contact with the tigers, from the babies to the full grown adults. It’s been a dream of mine to hug a tiger. The fee was minimal.
We were famished by the time we got home. We found some delicious food to end our perfect day.
Wednesday, December 9th, 2015.
The tour officially begins today. I’ll get back with you in a few days with lots of pictures you might enjoy. I can’t wait to be with the elephants!
Bye for now.
Erica
Fascinating trip so far Erica! Thank you for sharing it! Love, Ilene
Erica…amazing ! You bring to life this rich and vibrant place ! The ‘pleated ‘ corniced temple is an amazing piece of architecture!
We await more.
Glad dear friend, to know you are safe and floating around happily, in your adventure that fills your heart.
Stay well, rest when you can, and dream a lot!! XO
Safe and wonderful travels for you! thanks for sharing with this and fellow “arm chair travelers”. Love the Tiger. and love to all elephants – love to you too and all blessings in all your adventures! Mariel
Erica,
I haven’t logged into your blog for a few months. Imagine my surprise to catch this posting. I’m so delighted to see the smile on face as you partake of this adventure. I must say I feel a tinge of envy and a hint of a sense of a bit of a path that I might later pursue. Happy trails…
Alan
Goodness! It doesn’t get much better than all this – loving tigers, hot springs, temples, great food and the elephants still to come.
So happy for you!
i especially loved the idea of this big “cat” in your lap… I am not surprised, animals (and of course people) feel so comfortable in your presence!!
***wishing you the best***
I am fascinated and so excited for you. Thank you for the photos and for taking all of us along on your journey. I couldn’t get acces to the video. Love, Willa
Just wonderful!!!!!
Can’t wait for more, more, more.
Am so jealous that you got to hug that big, ol cat.
Thanks for the tour to the other side of the planet. Great pics-gla you could send so many! Bless the tigers and the elephants!
I love reading about and seeing this trip of yours. I don’t make wishes, but if I did I would wish I were there with you. Even at this distance I can feel the specialness of this area, through your words&photos. Thanks for sharing. pat cameron
yummmmmmmyyyy!!!!
those tigers are huge, how exciting to be so close. I thought Korea would be cold by now, but it looks very warm there. Thanks for the tour.
Hi Benette, I’m actually in Thailand. We had a very long layover in Seoul, Korea. I’m sorry if my post was confusing. Love, E
Dearest Erica…..you made it, looks like so much fun!
Are you going to bring that Tiger home with you?
Thanks for taking us all along with you…
We love you!
Di and Erik
Great letter!! And great Photos! The country does seem quite lovely.
Did you get a nice tiger smooch after the lap sitting? Your photographs are absolutely fantastic, really enjoying them. Hoping there’s a coffee-table book forthcoming 🙂
Oh My, Erica, How I wish I could be there with you, but this is next best. I am so happy for you. YOUr writing is so vivid and the pictures add so much flavor I “feel” being there. Next year! Lots of love, Anna
Hi Erica,
I love your posts and can feel myself in your experiences. Thanks for including Ted and I in your adventures. Much Love, Barbara
What an experience! The “Begegnung” with the tiger is fantastic – it reminds me of you meeting the mountain lion in Canyon de Chelly. Your lion is tamed………
I am looking forward to your experiences with the elephants. Thank you for sharing!
Enchanting! Thank you for the post. I look forward to more.
Fantastic! Give my love to Beth. Travel safely dear friend.
Fabulous, especially the tigers! How old were the ones in your photos? Why weren’t you eaten?!?
I think the tiger was around 10 years old. I don’t know why he didn’t eat me. I’ve been really fortunate with my close encounters with wild animals..like mountains lions, bears——and even some wild people. We seems to get along well for some reason. Maybe it’s because I’m half wild myself. Didn’t you notice that about me?
Delightful travelogue, Erica. Especially love the pictures of you with tigers. Looking forward to more posts!
how cool is that to receive “tiger initiation”???? so auspicious and wonderful……powerful healing to receive tiger love.
much love, laurete
I’m looking forward to seeing the elephants! Unfortunately, I was unable to view your video of Jami playing the cello for the elephants.
Oh, Erica, I am thrilled to hear and see if your adventures…..want to hear everything. Thx for sharing. Have a blessed trip.
Wow Rickie, what an adventure. You are amazing!
OF COURSE that tiger wanted to sit in your lap…thank you for this fine, fine virtual travel dearest Erica/adventuress/warrioress xxx
The trip looks absolutely amazing so far! Can’t wait to see pictures of the elephants!!
Wonderful! Makes me want to plan a trip. Tiger! Roosters! Massage! Temples! Jungle. More temples. Children making music.
So beautiful, thank you Erica! Have a wonderful time with the Elephants and exploring this exotic land. With love from Santa Fe…
Wonderful!!!! Thanks for sharing your beautiful pictures and insightful words!
So wonderful!Thank-you Erica.I don’t think I would be brave enough to hug that tiger!
How exciting!Can’t wait to see you with the elephants!
SO glad you are enjoying your time Erica. Wishing you the most wonderful trip. Peace and Love – Bill
AWESOME… thanks for sharing!! Look forward to more posts.