Antarctica-Part II. Buenos Aires

During a nine-hour wait in the DFW airport—lengthened by technical difficulties with our flight—I managed to attract three different people with medical problems. A man and his wife from British Columbia, seated next to me in the waiting area, began chatting with me. They had organized a running marathon on Antarctica—over ice, snow, and rocks—and had gone down there seven years in a row to oversee the event. The subject of Lyme Disease popped up because the man had suffered with the illness for nine years. Of course, I couldn’t help myself from diving right in.

After the couple left to get some lunch, a young gay woman from Argentina sat down next to me and began discussing US politics. A woman two seats away loudly announced that President Trump was going to fix everything that was wrong with the US. She and the Argentine woman had a polite, but heated debate. I stayed silent, too shocked to respond to the woman’s harsh stance about taking away all government support for those in need.

The other two people I spoke with regarding their medical problems was a woman with a rash that was easy to diagnose as being fungal-related, and then the lovely man who sat next to me on the flight to Buenos Aires who had vertigo intermittently for a prolonged period of time.

Mid-flight a stewardess announced over the loud speaker that, if there was a doctor onboard, to come to the business class section. Once I got there, the person who called the alarm decided he was all right.

Yes, I know that I’m on vacation, but it’s hard for me not to speak up if I think I can help someone. On top of that, focusing on someone else’s problems keeps me from focusing on my own—like my discomfort being in airports.

The young man who sat next to me on the overnight flight spent the afternoon with me exploring the city by subway. Buenos Aires, as predicted, has changed a lot since I visited the city in 1976, exactly at the time that Isabela Perron was thrown out of office and the military dictators took over and terrorized the Argentine people during the next seven years. The economy crashed and the dollar was in high demand. As a Peace Corps volunteer with very little money, I was able to eat three meals in a day for approximately one dollar. I felt sad seeing this once proud country come to its knees. After I returned home, I heard about the murders of students, journalist, teachers, and anyone else with leftist leanings—up to 30,000 were murdered or “disappeared.”

While I ate dinner at a restaurant in Buenos Aires with my Ecuadorian climbing buddies in 1976, masked men with guns came into the restaurant and commanded everyone to get up and stand facing the wall with their hands behind their heads. I was the only woman in the restaurant. I felt worried that I might die without my parents knowing my whereabouts or how to find my body. I held my breath, waiting for the bullet in the back of my head. After some yelling, the masked men led two men from another table away at gunpoint. The rest of us sat back down at are table, too shaken to finish our meal.

La Casa Rosada, the Pink House, is the seat of the government. The pink color originally came from the blood of cows that congealed the stucco. The Pink House resides in the Plaza de Mayo, the famous gathering place for protesters.

In Plaza de Mayo signs of protests can be seen everywhere, including a sign of protest about the marines who fought in the Falklands war against England, yet never received their social security benefits. The most moving protest of all are the old women who still come to Plaza de Mayo in protest for their sons and daughters who “disappeared” during the bloody seven years of military dictatorship forty years ago.

My friend, Miguel Di Donato, came to visit me during my stay in Buenos Aires. I hadn’t seen him for almost twenty-five years when he came to see me shortly after I moved into my co-housing community in the early 1990s. We have the kind of friendship that remains strong even after decades of not seeing each other and with little communication.

Miguel cooking soup in his tent while a storm raged outside. The photo was taken in the same era that I met him and his climbing buddies on the slopes of Aconcagua, on the border between Chile and Argentina.

I took a five-hour bike tour around some of the older and more colorful parts of Buenos Aires.

Outdoor cafes are everywhere in certain neighborhoods.

Some of the early immigrants made their own shelters from scrap metals from the ships on the Plata River. The people scrounged for whatever paint they could find, making this particular neighborhood bright and cheerful.

Since there were only two people on the bike tour—an Israeli businessman and I—our tour guide, Alex, said he would take us to places most tourists don’t see. Behind this grill in the picture are the remains of a “concentration camp” where thousands of leftist Argentines were tortured and murdered at the hands of the military dictatorship.

Typical street food

The end of the interesting bike tour with our charming guide and historian, Alex.

Miguel took me in the subway to a tango studio for locals far from the town center. An hour and a half of classes cost $7. Although I was the only true beginner in the class, I thoroughly enjoyed myself and could easily see how this form of sexy, stylized dancing could become an obsession.

I was the only foreigner at the class

Today I transferred to Hotel Emperador, a high end hotel in a lovely neighborhood where our expedition group has gathered. We will depart at 6 am for Ushuaia and then we’ll embark on our journey to Antarctica.

Dear Readers, you might not hear much from me while I’m in Antarctica because of spotty and expensive internet connections and because of glitches in my new laptop computer which I should have tried out more thoroughly before I left on this trip. Just know that I’ll be soaking up every minute of this magical experience and will report back to you when I can.

 

 

 

 

 


Comments

Antarctica-Part II. Buenos Aires — 40 Comments

  1. Fun! I love how to ready open up and dive into things. Like the dancing class! Can’t wait to read the next posts…

    • I met the nicest Dutch people on the trip. They were all scared about Wilder winning the election. You all dodged a big bullet. What a relief for your country that you didn’t have to face another Trump.

  2. great photos and commentary…. my first glimpse of Buenos Aires…………thanks for y generous sharing of yourh exp;orations and old friends…wonderful seeing Miguel… I still remember his/your friend Hugo…….past and present mingle in precious moments…. love to you in the frozen wastes…….see you soon for warm hugs……

  3. Hi Erica, Diana, from Buenos Aires! it was so nice meeting you!!!we´ll be waiting for you, next time to learn and dance more Tango!! Very warm regards

    • It was very special meeting you after the tango class and walking with you to the subway stop. I think you are an exceptionally lovely person, Diana.

  4. 9 hours at DFW! Yikes. Looks like you bounced back from that delay and are well on your way.
    Bon voyage!

  5. In my mind is the image of you safely returning from this amazing adventure with more stories which inspire.
    The combination of your skills, experience, and generosity of spirit are gifts to all on your journey and to the armchair travelers reading your blogs.

  6. And to think that all the exciting things you’ve experienced so far are just the prelude to your Antarctica trip per se. I enjoyed the pictures but noticed there wasn’t one of you doing the tango.Maybe later? Thanks for taking the time to “write home”. You make traveling to the ends of the earth look easy. With admiration, Jane

  7. Erica,
    What an absolutely fabulous journey…WOW!
    Love seeing the pics and your smile! Hug a penquin for me!
    Maggie

  8. Hi Erica, So happy for you that yu are headed off on this grest adventure. And so lovely to hear how you never really book off duty from helping people. I cannot wait to hear more about your trip! Xxoxoxox Sarah

  9. You are an amazing woman. So brave in your adventures. You certainly live an exciting life. No grass grows under your feet. Safe and wonderful travels. Cannot wait to hear from you again.
    Love and many hugs ❤? Margo

  10. Sounds and looks like you are having a great time. Did you bring your mittens for the rest of your excursion?

  11. Love reading about your exciting adventures. Spent a month in Ushuala painting with husband attending Spanish school.. and watched departures to Antarctica… Looking forward to reading about your experience.

  12. And with all the other ‘interesting’ stuff that has happened in your life, you’re also intruded upon by the Argentine gangsters!! I’m glad you were not hurt doing the hold up.

    Hoping you have the best (and safest) time in Antarctica!

  13. Thanks for the update!
    Been thinking about you constantly and wondering where you were, exactly, and what was going on.
    Keep ’em coming!
    So excited for you….
    xoxo

  14. “The untold want, by life and land ne’er granted,
    Now, Voyager, sail thou forth, to seek and find…”

    …As the time draws nigh glooming a cloud,
    A dread beyond of I know not what darkens me.
    I shall go forth,
    I shall traverse the States awhile, but I cannot tell whither or how long,
    Perhaps soon some day or night while I am singing my voice will
    suddenly cease.

    O book, O chants! Must all then amount to but this?
    Must we barely arrive at this beginning of us? –and yet it is
    enough, O soul;
    O soul, we have positively appear’d–that is enough…

  15. Hi Erica! U caught us by surprise…..already blogging….of course other’s spotted you as a dr…
    U were wearing the big Red Cross on your forehead, right, Hee Hee!!!
    Loved hearing and seeing you in action…riding your bike and smiling…
    We can feel your JOY!!!
    Sending you lots of love,
    As always, di and erik

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