Bhutan Bound–Part I. Departure

The long anticipated departure date has arrived. My friend, Heidi, and I are en route to Bangkok where we will rest and recover from the 24-hour flight from Santa Fe, before resuming the trip to Bhutan.

A very generous patient, who has become a friend, gave me this trip  of a lifetime as a gift for which I am enormously grateful. She had been on a similar trip with her husband and loved it.

The Bhutanese government only allows foreigners to enter as part of a tour. The travel company that organized our trip, Boundless Journeys, has a reputation for excellence. The trip was planned for 2020, but was postponed multiple times due to the pandemic and the closed border into Bhutan. Just recently, they opened their borders to both the vaccinated and the unvaccinated.

Sunset on the mountains in Alaska, seen through our window on our flight to Tokyo

Recently Boundless Journeys informed us that the trip was finally on—two years later. By this time, all the people who had originally signed up for the trip dropped out over time—except for Heidi and me. The staff at Boundless Journey decided to go ahead with the trip, even though they only had two customers, because we showed such “perseverance and determination.” As you might imagine, Heidi and I are thrilled that we will have the Bhutanese guide all to ourselves! I’m guessing that might mean we’ll have more flexibility in the schedule, where we go and what we see.

Let me introduce you to my friend, Heidi. My friendship with Heidi began in the 10th grade, in our AP English class. Three students in the class—Heidi, Sally, and I— were misfits, having lived abroad in various parts of the world growing up, and for that reason, not conforming to the conventional dress and mind set. We were probably regarded as refugees from outer space. The trio consisted of Sally Abbott who had lived in India, Burma, and Thailand, Heidi who spent her youth in Japan and teenage years in Paris, and I who first began school in England and was on my way to finish high school in Germany. We immediately recognized each other as kindred spirits and formed a tight bond.

Heidi and I lost touch with each other after I left for Germany. For almost 40 years she simply remained a fond memoir. Then in 2012, I got a knock on my door. When I opened the door the woman standing in front of me said, “Hi Rickie.” My mind raced around trying to figure out who would call me by my childhood name. She said that a classmate from high school had notified her on Facebook that “Rickie Merriam” lived in Santa Fe. Heidi had just moved nearby to a co-housing community modeled by The Commons, the co-housing community I lived in. In fact, Heidi and her husband, Zev, had come to a community dinner at The Commons to see how it felt to live in community. She sat at my table. We had a lively conversation, not having any idea that we were best friends in high school, but now going by different names. I made a mental note that Heidi and I could become very good friends if she ever decided to leave the East Coast and move into a co-housing community in Santa Fe.

Heidi and I hiking near the Chama River

Heidi and I now are sitting in the Tokyo airport, waiting for our flight to Bangkok where we will recuperate from jet lag in an airport hotel, then fly to Bhutan to begin our hiking trek.

The adventure has already begun: On the flight, one on the passengers fainted on the way to the bathroom. He got up and then fainted again and then a third time. I went over to where he lay in the aisle to offer help. His Asian complexion had turned ashen color, his eyes glazed over, heart rate was around 40 beats per minute, and his lower abdomen was painful on palpation. His wife said he had been having frequent episodes of diarrhea, and had just drunk a glass of wine before he fainted. He appeared to be severely dehydrated. We propped him up near the emergency exit, plied him with water. After drinking two quarts, his color returned and his blood pressure normalized. After an hour of observation by the stewardesses, he was able to return to his seat. This case definitely did not require a medical detective to determine the cause of his symptoms.

Looks like the patient will live!

On a different note, before we left on the trip, we saw a very touching movie made in Bhutan in 2019 by a Bhutanese filmmaker. The film is called “Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom.” It won multiple awards and was nominated Best International Feature Film at the 94th Academy Awards. The main character, Ugyen is a singer who aspires to go to Australia and become famous in the modern world.. The Bhutanese government mandates that he complete his compulsory service teaching in a remote, mountain village, called Lunana, where he falls in love with his native country. The film is available on Netflix.

Scene from “Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom”

We have landed in Bangkok after a very long and tedious light. We will rest up for a day and then head out to Bhutan on Wednesday, November 2nd. Stay tuned for Part II of our Bhutan odyssey,


Comments

Bhutan Bound–Part I. Departure — 51 Comments

  1. HI ERICA, IT HAS BEEN SINCE NOVEMBER THAT I HAVE HEARD FROM YOU….JUST WONDERING HOW YOU ARE
    DOING!!!!!
    HUGS AND KISSES FROM MAGGIE MACRAVEN!!!!!!

    • Hi Maggie, That’s so sweet that ask. I’m doing well. I visited my son and his wife over the Christmas Holidays. We had a lovely time together. I hope you are thriving—in spite of everything. Much love, Erica

  2. Thanks for putting me onto this and the rest of your blog posts. I was about to go to bed, but now I’ll be up for another couple of hours. Like you, I have had plenty of South Asia experience, so need to read the rest of your Bhutan saga. I love your AP writing, hearkening back to your 10th grade class. I must be about your age, but I can assure you that there was no AP English class at Santa Fe high.

  3. What a wonderful and mystically well-timed trip for you, dear Heidi…wishing you love and peace on this journey and thanks for allowing us to join you!

  4. I am new to your blog but enjoyed reading your book. My husband David and I just got back from a trek in Bhutan.
    We got in two days after they reopened the country. We share dear friends Phil and Betty, and I met your traveling companion, Heidi at a party thrown by a mutual friends Anita and Kurt. My husband knew Zev. I feel the connection.
    You are both in for the trip of a life time. Can’t wait to see your photos of the Tiger’s nest. I hope you have great weather but either way you will enjoy this kind and giving culture with such beauty everywhere.

  5. I really enjoyed reading the backstory of your trip and your relationship with Heidi. I am a friend of Heidi’s from over 40 years ago when we were both living in New York. Wishing you a safe and glorious experience in Bhutan.

  6. Oh. Thank you! I so much enjoyed both the prehistory of this trip and also the history of your friendship. How wonderful

  7. Hi Erica, I’m so excited for you and Heidi! What a total blessing that a patient gifted you with this trip. I look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Please know that you and Heidi will be in my prayers for a safe and absolutely magical journey. Many, many blessings and love to you, Linda Frisone

  8. So good to hear about this first leg of your marvelous journey! How lovely & beautiful that you & Heidi reunited after all these years & felt a kinship without even knowing you had a past friendship. Love the Synchronicities. And now, as traveling companions through the magic of Bhutan. Have the time of your life!!
    In my prayers & send many blessings.

  9. So glad you’ve begun the reports already!! Perhaps you both have been in Bangkok before. Quite the City! And the airport is phenomenal! I can’t wait for more reports of your adventures!!

  10. I am loving reading about the first chapter here of your journey dear Erica! You have been in Kenn’s and my prayers for vitality, health ,great energy and a joyful trip! Can’t wait to keep reading. We’re sending you all our love!
    Christine and Kenn

  11. OH WOW WHAT A GREAT EVENT FOR YOU!!!!!! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WHEN YOU COME HOME I AM SURE WE
    WOULD ALL LOVE TO KNOW HOW WONDERFUL THE TRIP WAS!!!!! HAVE A VERY HAPPY AND FUN EVENT!!!!!
    LOVE TO YOU!!!!!!

  12. I hope you will have our same guide from 3 years ago. Please ask to see the nunnery and be blessed
    by the nuns. They love sweets ❤️

    • Will do!!! I am deeply grateful to you for making this trip of a lifetime possible. With palms pressed together, I bow to you. With love, Erica

  13. Hi Erica,
    How wonderful. Bhutan’s natural beauty, culture and people are so unique and precious. I am so excited for you. Betty and I traveled to Bhutan in 2008. The Mayo Clinic had just diagnosed me with ALS so there was little time to spare. It was December and all the scheduled trips were finished because of winter so we hired a guide and driver and had the time of our lives.

    We are looking forward to hearing more about your trip. Watching “Luna: A Yak in the Classroom” brought back many memories for us. Betty’s 3rd graders would have loved a yak in their classroom. Me too.

    Consider sitting on the left side in your aircraft cabin because you might get a view of Mount Everest on your flight into Thimphu.

    If you want to check out our 2008 Bhutan photos this is the Flickr link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/pblock3/collections/72157614773899367/

    Lots of love and hugs.
    Phil and Betty

  14. Rickie! This is a fantastic addition to your life adventures I can hardly wait to experience through your eyes. Your reconnections with people are so energizing. Now you’ll have Bhutan in common with fellow classmate, Phyllis Bergman. So cool you had a meal with Heidi and without realizing your history, just knew you were kindred soirits. Love to you, dear Rickie

  15. Wonderful! You are adventurous for sure. Actually, very similar to Shayna, my daughter She is doing her honeymoon in Patagonia. I look forward to hearing more about your journey .I am sure you and Shayna are meant to run into eachother 1 day in Santa Fe

  16. Thrilled that you’re writing each day snd posting so we can see and hear about your adventures. Thank you for taking us along. I Am living your great life with you. Your friendship story is remarkable and familiar. Heidi is a cherished soul sister. That makes us related! 😊❤️ Tina

  17. Have a wonderful journey , dear lady of adventure! I might have joined the two of you, if i had known but I am excited to hear the news of your travel

  18. Hi Erica,

    I am so impressed that you decided to take this journey!
    Enjoy soaking up ALL the magic Bhutan has to offer. You truly
    deserve this wonderful adventure!!

    Sending love,
    Shannon

  19. Much love to you and Heidi! Glad you made it to Bangkok. We are eagerly awaiting blogs from Bhutan. Have the time of your life! You two really persevered for sure…and what a reward to have the guide to yourselves!

  20. Erica; so glad for you to be out in the world. You deserve this after all the years of service and good energy you put out. Please keep yup the narrative as its vicariously fulfilling. Jan Sultan

  21. What goes around comes around– and now you’re almost around the other side of the earth in a most marvelous country with your childhood friend. How truly wonderful. May you both return healthy and full of riches.

    Love, Bob

  22. So wonderful to be part of your adventure! I can tell that you’ll discover many times that you’re at the right place, at the right times!

  23. Wow! How exciting! So wonderful that you are on this adventure with your longtime friend Heidi. I am looking forward to reading all about it from my favourite author ! Wishing you both a safe and fabulous time. XX

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