Bhutan is a small country with a population of around 800,000, nestled between two giants, India on the south side and China to the north–the Tibetan Autonomous Region. The great majority of the population is made up of young people, between the ages of 20-35. The few cities in Bhutan are tiny by Western standards–more like large villages.

The country is almost entirely mountainous with 70% of the land covered in forests. The constitution of Bhutan mandates that at least 60% of forests will remain in perpetuity. One can observe immense biodiversity of flora and fauna when traveling within Bhutan, from the subtropical areas just above sea level to some of the highest peaks in the world. Several of Bhutan’s snow-covered eastern Himalayan peaks have never been summited. Climbing in Bhutan is forbidden due to the sacredness of those peaks, although trekking with a guide is encouraged.

The majestic, snow-covered Himalayan Mountains preside over the country.

Bhutan is referred to in Dzongkha, the Bhutanese language, as Druk Yul, which means “Land of the Thunder Dragon.” The people call themselves Drukpa, or “Dragon People,” and the head of state is Druk Gyalpo, or “Dragon King.” The dragon is their national symbol and appears on their flag. We flew into Bhutan from Bangkok on Druk Airlines.

The flag of Bhutan with national symbol, the Druk.

Our guide, Sangay Dhendup, shared with us some of Bhutan’s history. He said that a Tibetan lama called Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel got a message from two ravens to go to Bhutan. In 1616, at the age of 23, Zhabdrung Rinpoche arrived in Bhutan. He built many dzongs (fortress monasteries). By 1651, Zhabdrung Rinpoche had unified the country which was earlier ruled by regional heads and divided into warring factions. He introduced the dual system of governance—religious and administrative. People refer to him as “The Great Unifier.”

Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan, located in the center of the country, uniting the eastern and western half of Bhutan. It is located above a steep and narrow river valley.

Trongsa Dzong is the largest dzong fortress in Bhutan. The Dzong is home to 200 monks who share the fortress with administrative offices, consistent with the dual governance by both the sacred with the secular.

I never tire of looking at the beautiful architecture in Bhutan with its fine craftsmanship and attention to every detail.

The friendly governor happened to walk by while we were in the courtyard and, with a big smile, agreed to pose for a photo.

The year 1907 marked the beginning of the current monarchy when Ugyen Wangchuck was elected to be the first King of Bhutan. Sir Ugyen Wangchuck was crowned on December 17, 1907 with the title Druk Gyalpo (Dragon King).

Gongsar Ugyen Wangchuck was the first Druk Gyalpo (King) of Bhutan from 1907 to 1926. In his lifetime, he made efforts to unite the fledgling country and gain the trust of the people.

Jigme Wangchuck, the second ruler of Bhutan, ascended the throne in 1926 upon the passing of his father. He was raised as the successor to the throne and received a strict education in English and Hindi and was schooled in Buddhist principles.

The third king of Bhutan, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, reigned from 1952–72.

Bhutan’s kings are deeply loved.They have gained their power from their concern for the wellbeing of every single one of their people. The third king saw how the inequality of land owners created great suffering among the people who had to work on the land of the wealthy, in conditions that resembled slavery. He mandated that each family could not own more than 25 acres of land. His mandate resulted in the end of serfdom and slavery. The third king also modernized Bhutan by building a road connecting the western part of Bhutan with the eastern part, by forming a Cabinet, and by joining the United Nations. He also harnessed the hydropower from Bhutan’s mighty rivers, providing the country with electricity. The excess electricity was exported to India, providing an ongoing source of income. In the 1970, the Himalayan Kingdom first opened its doors to tourists.

Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth dragon king of Bhutan, ascended the throne in 1972 at the age of 17. At that time he was the youngest monarch in the world.

When the third king died suddenly in 1972, his son was only 16 years old. He was crowned king at the young age of 17. His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king of Bhutan, built on the huge changes his father had made to enhance the wellbeing and modernization of the Bhutanese people. He is famous internationally for introducing and implementing the philosophy of Gross National Happiness in the 1980s.This concept joins the material wellbeing with the social and spiritual wellbeing of the nation. The concept also includes the preservation of Bhutan’s culture and environment. In 1999, the fourth king introduced TV and the internet to Bhutan

The fourth king is a great man whose humility is extraordinary. Instead of living in a palace, His Majesty has chosen to live in a little wooden house. On three different occasions we saw him drive by in his black vehicle. People say they see him frequently riding his bicycle in various parts of the city and  country. For more than three decades, the fourth Dragon King of Bhutan steered his people into the modern world, while encouraging their traditional culture to thrive.

When the Fourth King turned 50 years old, he abdicated the throne to his oldest son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, who then became the Fifth King at the age of 28. A public coronation ceremony was held on November 6, 2008, a year that marked 100 years of monarchy in Bhutan.

Bhutan’s Fifth King, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck and Queen Jetsun Pema.

Gross National Happiness rests on four pillars: (paraphrased from article written by Association for Asian Studies)

Sustainable development: Bhutan has moved cautiously into the modern, globally connected world, with concern about maintaining its identity and ideals. An example is the prohibition against exporting lumber. There is also widespread adoption of cast-iron stoves that are also used to heat rooms and are vented outside the houses. This innovation has reduced both the use of wood and the negative health impacts of breathing smoke. Another example is the use of dams to create and export electricity, rather than engaging in activities, like mining, that diminish natural resources. Tourism contributes money and jobs to the economy without diminishing resources. Tourism in Bhutan, however, is tightly controlled: tourists must be accompanied by a Bhutanese guide. They must spend a minimum of $250 per day (including room, board, guide, and transportation), and bookings are made solely through Bhutanese travel agents. The hotels and restaurants are almost all Bhutanese owned, and air travel is only by one of the two Druk airplanes.

Preservation of cultural values: Bhutan strongly feels that it has a mission to preserve its Buddhist Himalayan cultural heritage. Regulations requiring wearing traditional Bhutanese clothes—the kira for women and the gho for men—maintaining traditional architecture for buildings, teaching the Dzongkha language at all levels in schools, and restricting citizenship of migrants, are all part of the “One Nation, One Culture” movement mandating common appearances and practices in several areas. Himalayan heritage is preserved.

Conservation of the natural environment: Bhutan seeks to distinguish itself from Nepal’s deforestation and the resulting soil erosion that also plagues downriver, flood-prone neighbor Bangladesh. Bhutanese tourism attraction rests on environmental features such as its rare black-necked cranes, Himalayan bison, and blue poppies, among other endangered species. The food in Bhutan is at least 70% organically-grown. The constitution mandates that in the next decade 100% of the food will be grown without synthetic fertilizer and without pesticides. (I’m envious)

Good governance: In stark contrast to most other developing countries, Bhutan vigorously prosecutes corruption. A widespread push for e-governance requires the Internet posting of much government information. The 2008 election of a new parliament represented a rare (and widely protested) instance of an immensely popular king choosing to abdicate in favor of his son. The king further advised the electorate to dethrone his successor if they did not like his performance. The election turnout, even in remote areas, was quite large, and the young new king remains popular.

Although rooted in Buddhist beliefs, GNH has inspired much international interest and discussion concerning its qualitative and quantitative measurability and subcategories such as physical, mental, and spiritual health; time balance attainment, sociocultural and ecological vitality, education, and living standard satisfaction are related categories. Assessment of GNH levels might be theoretically possible with data provided through international development agencies for such “quality of life” categories as infant and maternal mortality, longevity, and school completion rates for both genders.

On our way to our next adventure up to Tiger’s Nest Monastery.

I can’t tell you enough how uplifting it is to experience a country that pursues life with such strong and healthy intentions. The people’s love of their land and culture is palpable and heartwarming.